Title: “Cruel Intentions”: A 1999 Teen Drama that Blended 18th-Century Elegance with 90s Sensuality
The 1999 teen drama film “Cruel Intentions,” which marks its 25th anniversary this week, is a gripping tale of manipulation and deceit among two spiteful stepsiblings, Kathryn Merteuil (Sarah Michelle Gellar) and Sebastian Valmont (Ryan Phillippe), at their elite Manhattan prep school. With a box office collection of over $70 million, this movie not only boosted the careers of its stars further up the A-list but also offered an intriguing deviation from contemporary teen films and previous adaptations.
Based on Pierre Choderlos de Laclos’ 1782 novel “Les Liaisons Dangereuses,” this production had a small budget, estimated to be $10.5 million. To differentiate themselves from earlier films and adaptations like the 1988 one starring Glenn Close, John Malkovich, and Michelle Pfeiffer, the filmmakers aimed to infuse 18th-century elegance with 90s sensuality.
Costume designer Denise Wingate shared her experience with CNN, stating that their limited budget necessitated creativity in looks. She wanted to incorporate period silhouettes into contemporary costumes by paying homage to the 1988 adaptation. For instance, Sarah Michelle Gellar’s character Kathryn donned a Dolce & Gabbana suit with a custom corset during her first scene as an acknowledgment of the source material.
While Donna Karan, Gucci, and Calvin Klein were popular fashion brands for the characters, Ryan Phillippe’s Sebastian received a “big box of clothes” from Prada. Given his recent modeling stint for the luxury Italian house, this was an ideal fit. Christine Baranski, who portrayed Bunny Caldwell (Cecile’s WASP-y mother), wore Chanel-style suits from St John.
Contrasting Kathryn and Sebastian’s mature, dark-colored looks, Annette Hargrove (Reese Witherspoon) and Cecile Caldwell (Selma Blair) showcased their naivete through preppy pastels and more youthful styles.
The period-clashing juxtapositions extended beyond clothing. Kathryn’s deep blue boudoir, a set built on an LA sound stage, was intentionally contrasted with Sebastian’s autumnal-toned bedroom. Tessa Posnansky, the set decorator, shared with CNN that they custom-built a Louis XIV desk for Sebastian’s room with an old and new pairing.
The opulent Harry F. Sinclair House on New York’s Fifth Avenue, named after the oil tycoon who once resided there, served as Kathryn and Sebastian’s decadent apartment. Posnansky’s favorite living room set element was the bold magenta silk curtains, embodying the excess of the late 90s.
Central Park provided the backdrop for one of the film’s most iconic scenes, where Cecile learns to kiss from Kathryn. Kathryn’s all-black garments with sunglasses and a Chapeau du Matin-style hat were inspired by Audrey Hepburn’s famous outfit in the park.
Twenty-five years later, “Cruel Intentions” continues to inspire with its styling influences seen in various noughties hit shows such as “The OC” and “Gossip Girl.” Its impact can also be witnessed in the finale of Netflix’s “Do Revenge,” which features Sarah Michelle Gellar as the school’s headmistress. Despite being an adaptation that drew inspiration from numerous existing works, “Cruel Intentions” remains a timeless source of inspiration for new generations.
