Redefining the Dandy: Sarah Ball’s Exploration of Self-Expression and Personal Style in the 21st Century
Charles Baudelaire, a renowned French poet and critic from the 19th century, once penned that “Dandyism is a mysterious institution” – an intriguing phenomenon among Parisian and English high society, characterized by a fanatical devotion to appearances. This subculture, with its deep-rooted desire for originality, has evolved and inspired countless interpretations over the decades.
Baudelaire himself, a connoisseur of decadence, recognized in the dandy’s enigmatic character a burning desire to create an entirely unique persona. The term “dandy” may evoke images of various figures in today’s world – Harry Styles in a string of pearls or playwright Jeremy O. Harris’ natty Thom Browne suits, for instance. The essence of the dandy, however, lies in its preening self-curation and transcendence of gender norms and expectations.
British artist Sarah Ball’s first New York solo exhibition, “Tilted,” at Stephen Friedman Gallery in Tribeca, explores the complexities and interpretations of this elusive persona. Comprising ten large-scale, intricately composed portraits in Ball’s signature ethereal color palette, the show challenges conventional notions of gender identity and celebrates self-expression.
Each character featured in “Tilted” is dressed in their idiosyncratic accoutrements, meticulously rendered with minute attention to detail: rakish beribboned headgear, delicate lace collars and bonnets, expressive makeup, oversized eyewear, and even a cocktail glass holding a slosh of liquid and the briny green of a Castelvetrano olive. Ball, who works from a studio in St Ives, Cornwall, is attracted to individuals with an unwavering sense of personal style and complete individuality.
Ball’s exploration of the dandy persona has been a natural progression for her work, which examines the tension between self-identity and external presentation. “It’s part of a much bigger idea: how we are defined by others or how we define ourselves,” she shared. “I’ve always been interested in how we present a version of ourselves externally; how our personality manifests itself.”
These portraits possess an otherworldly stillness and surreal quality, placing the subjects slightly out of time. “That is definitely something I seek when I’m looking for people to paint,” Ball explained. “Indelible personal style is also crucial to the allure.”
“Declan (In Simone Rocha With Eddie)” depicts an individual in a crystal-embroidered smock dress by Irish designer Simone Rocha, known for her rebellious takes on historic ritual, “feminine” codes, and gender play. Accompanied by their long-haired guinea pig Eddie, swaddled in a lace-edged handkerchief, Declan’s coiffed shag haircut could evoke 18th century Flanders or any contemporary hipster enclave.
Ball’s encounter with Andrew Solomon’s 2004 essay on Dandyism influenced the body of work. “I’ve always looked at and used historical archives as a way of connecting with what’s happening in the world at the moment,” Ball shared. “It’s a bit tongue-in-cheek, but the idea of ‘promenade’ in showing oneself off is the same as people use social media for, really.”
Two figures in the show, Von and Henry, demonstrate the transformative nature of persona construction and the depths that may lie beyond the surface. “I’m aware that Instagram allows us to curate an image, an idea of ourselves,” Ball noted, “but unless you know that person, you don’t really ever know whether that’s true.”
Ball’s interpretations of the dandy showcase its mutability and fluidity, as she references a series of female inspirations for the ‘look’: Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s outré trouser suits and cropped bobs, Marlene Dietrich on screen, and Sandy Powell, the flame-haired, bespectacled costume designer known for her collaborations with directors Martin Scorsese and Todd Haynes.
Ultimately, Ball’s work highlights the power of individual verve and the courage to defy conventions. “I’ve always been drawn to people that have not followed one path or another,” she said, “people who are extroverts, theatrical, unusual, creative, and wonderful.”
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