The Art of French Café Waiting: Professionals in Action at Paris’s Course des Cafés
The waitstaff of Parisian cafés have long been the subject of criticism, with accusations ranging from being unfriendly to downright impolite towards their customers. However, these individuals, fondly referred to as “garçons de café,” possess an impressive skill set that goes beyond their public image. They can remember the orders of numerous patrons without taking notes, effortlessly carry multiple dishes and drinks at once, and handle a bustling lunch rush with ease – all while managing to sneak in the occasional cigarette break.
On a sunny Sunday, Paris paid tribute to these remarkable professionals through the revival of an age-old tradition: the Course des Cafés. Hundreds of elite café waiters, dressed in their classic attire consisting of black pants or skirts, aprons, and white tops, gathered for a two-kilometer (1.2 mile) race through the historic streets and alleys of central Paris.
To succeed in this competition, participants had to maintain a swift pace while ensuring their trays remained undisturbed. Any alteration to the tray’s contents would negatively affect their final score, and absolutely no spillages were permitted. The Paris city government even joked about there being a “no eating” rule during the race.
The demanding specifications transformed the event from a simple run into more of an endurance speed walk. Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo shared her experience with journalists prior to the race: “I tried holding the tray, it’s pretty heavy!”
Competitors ranged from confident veterans to anxious rookies. As they set off, mishaps were inevitable: water spilled, cups fell, and one participant shouted, “I can’t feel my fingers!”
Despite the chilly spring weather, thousands of Parisians braved the cold to witness the return of this quintessential French event, which had been canceled twelve years ago due to budgetary constraints. The city government revived the tradition as part of its preparations for hosting the 2024 Summer Olympic and Paralympic Games, using it to promote sportsmanship and “the excellence of French service.”
Several city officials joined in the race, including the mayors of central Paris, Ariel Weil, and those responsible for Olympic affairs and business, Pierre Rabadan and Nicolas Bonnet Oulaldj.
The first “Course des Cafés” was organized in 1914 to showcase the cafés and restaurants of Paris, according to French historian Laurent Bihl. The event gained popularity not only in the capital but also across France in cities such as Nice, Belfort, and Calais.
Across the English Channel, many British towns adopted this race with a local twist – replacing the coffee and croissant with a pint of beer. The concept even spread as far as Hong Kong and Yokohama.
Back on Parisian streets, the fastest competitors completed the revived Course des Cafés race in less than 14 minutes. In this high-stakes competition, Pauline Van Wymeersch from Café le Petit Pont and Samy Lamrous from La Contrescarpe emerged as the fastest woman and man, respectively. As their prizes, they received tickets to attend the Olympic opening ceremony that summer. Their newfound titles might even earn them a fresh wave of respect from those who grumble about the time it takes to order a coffee, croissant, and glass of water.
